Your Weekend Getaway In...Havana!

Endless rum cocktails, timba, reggaeton, salsa, and son blaring from every car, window and restaurant you pass and a vintage vibe you have to see to believe. Havana, Cuba may be just a dream to most American travelers but as we’ve reported before, that hasn’t stopped the rest of the world from experiencing the wonder of this complicated, magical little city. And now that dream is becoming a reality to the rest of us. As a veteran Cuban traveler, I’ve seen this city transform over a period of 8 years and frankly it was a little jarring to see more mobile phones than ever, new foreign cars and actually use wi-fi in a country where a large percentage of the population still doesn’t have dial-up internet access. Construction is everywhere and the hospitality industry is getting a bit of a makeover. Why? Because Cuba knows that all eyes are on her and that you want to come. So whether its a long weekend or a proper week’s stay in Havana, here are all the deets on where to stay, where to go, how to get there and how to enjoy all the many faces of Havana, and then come back for more.How To Get ThereCurrently for U.S. travelers, there are two ways to travel to Cuba: with a OFAC approved general license (legal) or by traveling through another country (not legal). There are currently twelve categories that one can qualify for to obtain a general license and any creative Parlourista can qualify if she works it. Having traveled both with an without a license, definitely get one. Why? Outside of risking the chance of being fined serious money by the government, becoming permanently "flagged" and losing your Trusted Traveler/Global Entry status if caught, you also will have an easier time with the U.S. Interests Section office in Havana in the event that things go all the way left like an arrest, serious injury or worse. The application process varies from one to three weeks currently and is very straightforward whether completed by you or through a travel agent.On the flip side, travel "jumping" through an adjacent country like Jamaica, The Bahamas, or Mexico has been the long-time choice for many travelers, especially during the Bush (both of them) presidential years when obtaining a license was impossible sans certain news publications and diplomatic outfits. In addition to the risk of being detected once trying to clear U.S. customs, going through a third country will also add on the cost of an extra flight and hotel stay. The upside of to this is that you're able to get a "two for one" vacation as a long weekend in Havana may not involve any lazy beach time with swim-up bars and personal towel concierges.The Parlour way? Mix it up. While I obtained a general license for my recent trip, I still traveled through Grand Cayman to allow myself to enjoy a little cheap and chic beach travel time both before and after experiencing the realness that is Cuba.**Where To StayIf you're #teamluxe and love consistent air conditioning and can’t live without your wifi, The Hotel Nacional is your place, located on a hill overlooking El Malecon in the Vedado district of Havana. In addition to being full of history and a registered World Heritage Site, the hotel has played host to a number of historical figures since opening in 1930 and was the site of the infamous mob summit with Lucky Luciano and Meyer Lansky, dramatized in 'The Godfather Part II.' (scroll down to continue on page 2!)In addition to it’s pool and well appointed rooms by Cuban standards, the hotel also boasts one of the strongest wi-fi connections in the city, accessible in it’s business center. While it may be pricey, for travelers that absolutely need to stay connected it’s a sure bet. If you’re lucky, you can request an historical room that may have been previously inhabited by Frank Sinatra, Nat King Col, Rita Hayworth and others. At the Hotel Nacional and most hotels in the city, what you will not see is many locals hanging out in the common areas, etc unless they are doing business or familial/business guests of locals. If you do plan on staying in a hotel, note that bringing anyone back to your room may be met with friction unless they have an inside connect. Other hotels to consider are the Melia Cohiba, and The NH Parque Central.If you are more of a DIY kind of traveler and want a more authentic experience, stay within a hosted home also known as a casa particular. Depending on your comfort level, you can have the full home to yourself and/or have your host prepare breakfast and lunch for you. In casa particulars located in areas like Centro and Habana Vieja, you will have a private wing to yourself with a door/passageway that will connect you to your host. In newer areas like Vedado, you may have the full apartment with your host located a few doors or blocks down. Every casa will have it’s own rules on guests, cooking, air-conditioning, and water use as many households conserve water by shutting it off during certain hours. Resources like AirBnb, Casa Particular Cuba, Trip Advisor and Cuba Junky have listings of the casas in the area with reviews and amenities. Admittedly, it does take a bit more work than just booking a hotel. But the great thing about casa particulars is your access to people, all who will help to show you around, give recommendations and an experience that you may not be privy to in the confines of your hotel. As this is a reputation-based business, you will find that hosts will often go above and beyond to accommodate early/late arrivals, special needs and more.Where To EatWhen you explore Cuba, you do so on foot. And when you’re walking around you will get hot. And then thirsty, and then hungry. And when you've been exploring Vedado, Old Havana and Centro all day like we did, there are plenty of places that will become your haven from the heat with great food and drinks.304 O’Reilly is easy to find as it’s name is also it’s address in Old Havana. Owned by two brothers, it makes up for it’s lack of size (and hence a wait) with great cocktails, small and large international influenced bites and an ambience that will quickly transport you to Wynwood or Williamsburg with it’s youthful, bohemian vibe.Around the corner you will find El Rum Rum, another paladar-restaurant that offers a more traditional, sit-down vibe and extended menu. After a long day of walking, talking and walking it became a haven for a friend and I to sip on daiquiris, eat croquetas and discuss the day’s events. The service was attentive, the food selection was vast and while small, the layout was super comfortable with a great bathroom as great bathrooms and Havana don’t always mix. For a fun night, I’d start with cocktails at 304 and then end with dinner at Rum Rum as they are right around the corner from each other in Old Havana. (scroll down to continue on page 3!)Other than being one the oldest and one of the most historic hotels in Cuba, the Hotel Inglaterra also offers one of the best outdoor cafes, The Colonial, to sit and people watch while grabbing small bite and drink. Over the years, it’s become a never-fail meeting place as it’s proximity to the street and Parque Central allow you unfettered access to people walking by and the chance of running into old friends and travel buddies. Catch a quick set from a live band, grab a Cristal, munch on some snacks and plot out the nights plans with your guidebook and/or friends.In the eastern part of Old Havana, close to the port of Havana and the Plaza de San Francisco, you will find one of the best “in/out” cafes for a quick drink and break from the Cuban sun, the Jardin del Oriente cafe is what you want. In addition to one of the best daiquiris I’ve ever tasted, the staff is friendly and the grounds foliage provides ample protection from the sun until you are ready to explore again.And if you find yourself hungry after a night of drinking and dancing, head to La Abadia for fresh and hearty tapas at all hours and a VIP view of the Malecon and that much needed nightcap to end the night easy.What To DoHavana has a little something for everyone, but what you won't find is any mega malls or expansive, over the top tourist attractions. Guidebooks like Lonely Planet (my fave) have all the details on what's going on in Havana, but for the woman looking for a specific something, start here:The History LoverThe Museo de la Revolución is the best place to get close look into modern Cuban history, and specifically the revolutionary war of the 1950's and Cuban's post-revoutionary society from a Cuban perspective. Che Guevara's classic beret, the Granma yacht which ferried Fidel Castro to spark the revolution and other artifacts pivotal to Cuba's past are all housed inside the former palace and outdoor memorial, as well as the hilarious Rincon De Los Cretinos. (scroll down to continue on page 4!)The ShopperWhile Havana lacks the high-streets of Europe and souks/markets of the Middle East, Havana boasts three main areas where bargain hunters can look for Cuban souvenirs, vintage trinkets and more: The Mercado de Artesania at the Almancenes San Jose is a huge indoor market with aisles and aisles full of Cuban guayaberas, bone jewelry, t-shirts, paintings and gifts for friends back home. For a more local experience, head over to Calle Obispo and dip into the many shops that cater to both Cubans and tourists alike for higher-end Cuban made clothing, international brands, everyday household needs and more, and around the corner you will find contemporary shop Piscolabis which will cater to any design-minded shopper. And for the vintage lover, head over to the Plaza de Armas for the Secondhand Book Market where you can find classic Cuban and international titles, along with reproductions of vintage Cuban revolutionary and movie posters, items like phones, watches, coins and more.The Art LoverAfter visiting the Museo de la Revolución, walk up the street to the Museo Nacional De Bellas Artes to see the best in traditional and contemporary Cuban and Caribbean art, and if you visit before the Havana Biennial concludes on June 22nd, the museums collaborative exhibit with the Bronx Museum, Wild Noise, is a must see.The People Watcher x Music LoverFor the music lover, I could easily write another 5,000 word post as music is literally everywhere in Havana. If it is Sunday, head to the Callejón de Hamel in El Centro for the weekly rumba where Santeros and others gather to sing songs and in praise of the orishas, artisans display wares and friends gather for a few side convos, people watching and drinks.Club wise, start at the Jazz Club La Zorro y el Cuervo on Calle 23 and then jump in/out of any of the clubs in the area to start if you crave some night moves. When the clubs tire you out, head down Calle 23 to El Malecón with your own bottle and cups and join the rest of the city on the wall as small dance parties tend to break out spontaneously, vendors selling peanuts and other snacks abound and spontaneous friendships happen. If this is your first time in Havana, consider this a guide to ease your way in. If you're returning the the island after many years, welcome back - so much has changed and that easy feeling still remains. No matter what, Havana is the city you never forget, so enjoy it for everything is has, and everything it does not.Bringing your own toilet paper isn't a bad idea either.** As I traveled under a journalist license, please confirm that a two-country itinerary is admissible with yours.