Passport: A Dubai & Muscat Getaway, Remixed

He walked over with a brilliant smile and an ice cold face towel in a roll."Miss, may I also clean your sunglasses?""My glasses?""Yes, please."Nakia and I caught each other mid-glance and smiled. We definitely were in the right place.Rewind to Christmas Day when I along with what seems like the rest of the world awoke to a legit "too good to be true" deal from Etihad Airways that offered roundtrip flights to Abu Dhabi and select South Africa, Philippine and Asia locales for under $400. Truthfully I almost didn't do it, as most glitches tend to disappear in minutes. But by 11am I had successfully had a Christmas morning margarita (a tradition!) and purchased two roundtrip tickets for myself and my travel bestie Nakia to Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates for less than one ticket to Chicago. Hey girl, we're going to the U.A.E!Both Nakia and I pride ourselves on being more travelers than tourists, so as we got closer to our travel time and started to see social posts and stories from fellow fare-glitch flyers we knew that if we were going to enjoy just six days in the Gulf region, we were going to have to maximize our time and do it a bit differently, with #TravelFly style.Getting ThereNo one, no matter the class of their seat enjoys a 13+ hour flight. And with our coach seats, the first order of business was to create an in-flight situation that wouldn't leave us spending most of our time recovering from the journey. So soon after purchasing our original tickets I sat patiently on the phone with Etihad and purchased extra-legroom seats for $100 each way, per person. While on hold with Etihad and clicking around on their website, I also discovered that they also offer a two-tier meet and greet service for non-premium class guests for which the service is included. After a quick comparison, their top level Gold service ($55 pp) showed itself to be the best deal as it allowed us an express trip through customs and time to worry more about arrival duty free shopping* than waiting for and transporting our bags to our car.The flight itself was long with two meals along with a series of snacks available (Klondike bars can happen if you ask the right person!) and complimentary beer and wine. Thanks to having no seats in front of us, a great pillow, makeshift foot/leg rests courtesy of our carry-on bags and an attentive flight crew that regularly freshened the bathrooms and cabin, the flight was largely enjoyable and gave us plenty of time to nap and stretch our way into the 8-hour time difference.Upon departure we were greeted by the sweetest young woman and a porter who whisked us through the VIP customs line, retrieved our bags and then escorted us to our car. Instead of relying on taxi service for our 40 minute drive to Dubai, we booked a car through Blacklane and were welcomed by Assad and a fresh BMW 7 Series as opposed to the free shuttle offered by Etihad. For us, the idea of a 1.5 hour shuttle ride plus a taxi from the shuttle drop-off point to our hotel after such a long flight versus was okay, but a private ride directly to Dubai was way better and worth the $89 total spend. Taxis are also available for the ride to Dubai if that is your destination, for an average of $75-$90US depending on your destination.Dubai, A Little DifferentlyLove Vegas? You are going to live for Dubai, but the cultural traveler in you may be disappointed if you stick to the prescribed script. As a city with an expatriate community that that dwarfs the locals, all of the comforts of somewhere else (think: Starbucks, ColdStone, H&M) have found a home in this new money metropolis making it more familiar than you would think. And after checking into the Habtoor Grand Beach Resort & Spa in the Jumeriah Beach district, we realized we were in the middle of it all—with a great escape plan intact.The Habtoor Grand is the perfect hotel for the woman who likes a bit of everything: direct beach access, a variety of dining options and if you wish a huge mega club plus a full day spa. However while the opulence of the lobby and luxe comforts of our room impressed us, Nakia and I quickly found ourselves both over and underwhelmed by it’s bigness. The property is a hit with upper-class locals and expatriates who use it as a social destination, with the Al Dhiyafa Grand Kitchen being popular with the expatriate “ladies who lunch” crowd. Even if the Habtoor isn’t your hotel, do make a reservation to visit Al Dhiyafa, a beautiful buffet style restaurant that is the perfect balance of western and eastern cuisines that brings the luxe without being too over-the-top. If you prefer to get some sun while you eat, there is beach side service at the Habtoor but I quickly noticed that the staff seemed to be more attentive to the Eastern European teeny-bikini-clad socialites and beach club members versus guests and the 30+ meter walk from the beach seating area to the actual water was less than desired in the blazing Gulf sun. But if a central location and beach access is a must-have and a comfortable, chic room is what you desire the Habtoor is highly recommended.To be fair, with only 1.5 days in Dubai, our hotel served more as a comfortable basecamp versus a destination to enjoy and truly experience. Because at 6am, we found ourselves in the backseat of a Mercedes G-Wagon headed to the desert with Platinum Heritage Luxury Tours & Safaris. There are plenty of desert safari/adventure operators to choose from but after a search, we settled on Platinum for both their service offerings and their eco-friendly commitment to the conservation the desert dunes and wildlife of the region. And because they operate on private royal land, you don’t have to worry about a literal traffic jam in the desert when the idea is to take in it’s beauty and stillness. Another reason we went with Platinum was the choice of activities, namely the Falconry and Wildlife Safari, the only one of it's kind offered in the region. After being welcomed by our guide Hamdi at our hotel, we were taken to the desert reserve and found ourselves inside an authentic Bedouin style encampment and were greeted with fresh dates, water and Arabic coffee. A few minutes later we made a short walk to the Falconry tent, where our Falconer and guide James conducted an educational and interactive experience with three hunting birds (a Falcon, Harris’ Hawk and Barn Owl) and gave a history and practical lesson on the 4,000 year-old culture of falconry and it’s special relationship to the region. In the Middle East, falcons are among the most prized and prestigious animals to own, with all of the birds we saw belonging to a member of the royal family and housed on the reserve. If you love animals and the opportunity to interact and learn, this experience is the perfect balance of fun, education and culture with plenty of picture and storytelling opportunities for the folks back home. After the demonstration was over, we were treated to a Bedouin style breakfast, an optional camel ride and an afternoon safari on the reserve where we got within arms-reach of local Oryxs, and Gazelles. Hamdi, a native Egyptian, provided loads of useful information about desert life, history, animals and culture with his unique cultural perspective. And he was right, camel milk chocolate is absolutely delicious. Thankfully, he also provided an excursion within an excursion to look for hidden desert wildlife and go off path once we encountered a small safari group on the reserve to “allow us to enjoy the desert without interruption.” And honestly, the option of cruising the desert in a vintage 1967 Land Rover** or G-Wagon wasn't so bad either. We had already decided that if we were going to desert safari—we would safari better. With the early start time we found ourselves back at the hotel before noon to enjoy the rest of the day.Later after a beach session and lunch, we headed to the Deira district to watch the sun go down along the Deira Creek and spend the evening exploring the many souqs of Dubai with the Gold Souk at the center. Here you will notice that the area lives up to it’s “old Dubai” name as the buildings are less grand and older than in the center city. Like any urban shopping area, there is the main strip and the side streets—hit the side streets for the deals. As soon as you walk into the area, calls of “Madam…come visit my shop….Silver? Luxury bags? Brazilian Hair?” come out of nowhere and the "holler backs" begin. After an hour we were so worn out from "Brazilian hair?" that we had to see it. It wasn’t our thing (the quality was questionable) but after having a Broad City like experience to browse the counterfeit (and ultimately disappointing) accessories walking into the Hairy Princes wig shop was amusing. Fake goods aside, the real star is the what you are there for—gold. The souk is legendary for it’s prices and quality, with thousands of travelers and traders venturing to Dubai each year specifically to buy gold. Intricate bib designs, rings, earring and bangles decorate the windows of every shop and the shopkeepers are ready to make a deal as bartering is the custom. If you have time, take a ferry ride (1 Dirham) across the creek to the Bur Dubai stop and see where most of Dubai’s Pakistani and Indian community shop and worship in the Al Hamirya area. Note that this area tends to be less of a tourist draw so you may have to make your way back across the creek to grab a taxi home.Overall, Dubai is perfect for the person that wants the familiarity of home blended with a new experience. Uber at your fingertips, Starbucks and Shisha and if you are in the right place a cocktail. While you can easily leave the expat/hotel areas for a more Emirati and Islamic cultural experience, it’s easy to see why like in Vegas, plenty of people visit Dubai and don’t leave their hotel and surrounding areas. It’s easy not too, everything you could want is right there. But after one full day and a morning brunch Nakia and I found ourselves ready to leave and had plane tickets ready for the U.A.E’s quiet neighbor, the Sultanate of Oman.Heaven Next DoorAfter a quick one-hour flight on Oman Air, we found ourselves walking through a pair of double doors and out into blazing heat and blinding sunlight. We had arrived in the Omani capital city of Muscat, and it’s lack of skyscrapers like it’s U.A.E. neighbor was instantly felt. But for what Oman lacks in glitz, it makes up for in charm, authenticity and a true feeling of being "somewhere else." Almost immediately, the quiet stillness of Oman that would stay with us emerged and we were on our way with our hotel-arranged driver for  a 45 minute drive through the city of Muscat and within the cradling Al Hajar mountains to eventually arrive at the Al Husn Hotel, located within the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa. With a name that means “The Castle” its immediately apparent once you’ve arrived to Al Husn that you are going to be treated like royalty during your stay. Barr Al Jissah is actually comprised of three hotels: Al Waha, “The Oasis” which is made just for families, Al Bandar “The Town” which is for both leisure and business travelers and the Al Husn which provided the most exclusivity with it’s private beach and facilities, popular with honeymooning couples and discerning adult travelers. While our mission in Dubai was to see as little of the hotel as possible, in Oman the hotel quickly became the main attraction.Walking into Al Husn, we were greeted by an Omani gentleman by the name of Ahmed who’s smile and demeanor quickly made him our favorite person on the property. It was clear that the Shangri-La legendary brand of service and detail has been instilled throughout the resort, but the local touches and community integration (local musicians, design, artisans, etc) are what makes the Barr Al Jissah truly unique with a more boutique hotel feel rather a grand resort though it is the largest in the Shangri-La family. Because of Al Husn’s high location, the real star is the view. Every room has a view of the Gulf of the Oman, but our Deluxe Sea View room provided a daily show with a first impression that you have to see to believe. The room itself is spacious enough for two people to both find their quiet and it’s layout and amenities give you everything you could need. And for two curly girls, the addition of hair bands to the standard bathroom amenity kit inspired a loud “Yaaaaaaaas!” in unison. Because like an outlet convertor (also provided) a hair-tie is never needed until you really need it. It was the attention to detail throughout our stay that honestly floored us at times. And when you don’t have to worry about the little things, everything is easier - like surviving the Omani heat and humidity on the beach.A short walk down the hill from the hotel you will find yourself at the private beach, reserved exclusively for Al Husn guests and Bar Al Jissah villa owners, and this is where Shangri-La's notable service comes to life. From the personal cooler service that is ready stocked with ice, an Evian atomizer, water and juice to cool towels to the the sunglass cleaning and towel service, Al Husn's beach will quickly swallow you up with hospitality and you find yourself suddenly immobile sans a quick dip in the Gulf of Oman. There is an expansive infinity style pool on the property with plenty of shade and the same level of service, but there was nothing like letting the salt of the gulf's water allow you to easily float back to shore and while looking up into the mountains and cliffs in the distance. As the beach is the more sociable part of the hotel. we encountered couples and groups from all over Europe who were very friendly as everyone was on their respective mission to chill.Design and architecture lovers will find the purposeful details of Shangi-La Bar Al Jissah overwhelming as even the untrained eye can see the thought that has gone into the simplest of structures, from the elevators to the thruways and paths that connect each hotel to the signage, all reflective of Omani culture and modern Islamic design. For foodies, the entire property boasts over 10 excellent restaurants to choose from, with our two standouts being The Sultanah’s excellent breakfast buffet that includes both English and Middle Eastern staples and Shahrazad with it’s authentic Moroccan fine dining overlooking the water and live entertainment. But for the seafood that Oman is known for, all roads lead to Bait Al Bahar for curried and poached lobster and a true “water to table” experience courtesy of local fisherman who provide fresh fish daily that you can choose from with your server and have prepared in the manner you prefer. I named my fish Fred. And he was delicious. On top of the restaurant you will find it’s newly opened rooftop lounge which boasts a DJ and a great location for catching night breezes from the water. To be surrounded by Omani music and culture throughout the property earlier and then suddenly hear Nicki Minaj’s “Moment For Life” and hookahs gave us just a tinge of homesickness that quickly disappeared. With the addition of the B.A.B lounge, and the Long Bar in the Al Bandar hotel that is popular with cosmopolitan Omani’s complete with Shisha and cocktails, these two dips into traditional nightlife are just enough to keep the energy of the property youthful and modern without losing the exclusivity and tradition of luxury that Shangri-La is known for.Though the property boasts a small “souk” for guests to purchase local goods, it also offers a twice daily shuttle service to Muscat’s Mutrah Souk which is the main shopping hub for locals and tourists alike. In contrast to Dubai which is known for it’s gold, the Omani silver tradition is centuries old and can be found in the many shops in the souk. Goods like trunks, ornate boxes and wall hangings can be found everywhere but the real standout is the traditional silver jewelry for women and the Khanjar dagger covers which are worn by Omani men around their traditional attire. Second to silver is Omani Frankinscense which can be found in various forms and blends. Due to it’s proximity to India, Kashmir and Pakistan, local goods that are native to those countries can also be found at a fraction of what you would pay in the United States. Kashmiri scarves, Indian kurtas and more goods are there to choose from for as hard as you can barter them down for. While bartering is custom, both Nakia and I found the experience better in Oman with shopkeepers more willing to do combo deals and recommend you to other shops for specific finds and discounts. Shopping aside, Mutrah also provides the opportunity to sit and observe Omani people and culture as you will find many families doing their own shopping our enjoying it’s seaside location with it’s walking path, verandas and benches. Something we both noticed was the variety of Omani people and their unique style of masseurs, kumas and chadors and niquabs with detailing that was out of this world. And no matter where you turn, you will find Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the Sultan of Oman to greet you whether is image is on a shop wall, on steamers or towering over a building. During our time there, the country was ending their national celebration of “His Majesty’s” return to the country after spending nearly a year in Germany for medical treatment. Because of the design of the souk is a bit maze-like, give yourself at least an hour to take it in or you will find yourself running for the shuttle ride back to Shangri-La like us, but even if you do get stuck there are plenty of taxi drivers to ferry you back home.Overall, the decision to head to Oman and stay at the Shangri-La Muscat was the smartest, and most fulfilling aspect of our trip with it's overall chill vibe, historical sights and warm people. Had we more time, we could’ve taken multiple excursions to the city’s center and seen it’s Grand Mosque that apparently trumps it’s glitzy neighbors but truthfully, we didn’t want to leave the Shangri-La, specifically the Al Husn. For two busy women who play as hard as they work, it was the perfect escape that left us wanting nothing but more time. And with the significant amount of money saved on flights, investing in extras like better seats, more thoughtful safaris and a country hop was well worth it. Who knows? Maybe Christmas will come with another newsworthy deal or a chance to do it all over again.Coming HomeNot surprisingly, the most difficult aspect of this trip was returning home. Other than generally not wanting it to end we sadly discovered that not all Etihad flights were created equal as our flight (EY103) was operated by India's Jet Airways. Normally, when partner airlines operate each others flights the expected level of service is matched but we found ourselves feeling more cramped and hurried than normal, even with the same type of exit-row seats. The Etihad-level service, class and amenities that made our arrival flight so pleasant were clearly lacking, in addition to a bathroom situation that became so offensive that it had to be permanently locked towards the end of the flight.Final verdict? If you're headed to the U.A.E., it's all in the remix and you definitely will get what you pay for when it comes to tour operators and excursions. Do the homework, have a great time and definitely make some time for Oman or even Qatar on the other side of the U.A.E. Regardless, have fun, be safe and #TravelFly.*If you love a good cocktail, note that alcohol is largely restricted to hotel areas and properties/restaurants and it is expensive with the average drink costing about $12. Grab a few bottles at duty-free when you arrive and have a cute, in-room happy hour and nightcap to save your coins.**We highly recommend the G-Wagon as it will protect you from the hot early afternoon sun versus the Landrover’s which have exposed tops, unless it’s raining and then it’s just more fun that way.